Internal doors are designed to complement the surrounding interior design, as well as meeting the functional requirements of providing privacy and draught proofing. It may become necessary to remove and re-fit the door for any repairs or touch up painting, or you may wish to fit a completely new door. A new door can help bring your home's style up to date, or it can provide greater resistance to fire, draughts, and sound.
There are two basic types of door from which variations extend. These are panel and flush.
A panelled door is made traditionally, using either softwood or hardwood with dowelled or mortise and tenon joints. The door is divided into a minimum of two panels utilising grooves and rails.
A flush door is flat on both sides, hence fitting flush to the frame. It is comprised of a softwood frame covered in plywood or hardboard.
Hanging an internal door
Always measure the door frame in several places to determine as accurately as possible the width and height, noting any misalignments. There are standard door sizes to fit standard UK door frames, but houses do move over time. Older houses in particular can show twisting in the door frames, so it is usually necessary to amend your new door to fit the specifics of your frame.
The most common door sizes available are:
- " 610mm x 1981mm (2ft x 6ft 6in)
- " 686mm x 1981mm (2ft 3in x 6ft 6in)
- " 762mm x 1981mm (2ft 6in x 6ft 6in)
Whilst there are several other door sizes that can be purchased, you will probably need to go to a builders' merchant rather than the DIY superstore. Of course, you could also commission your own bespoke size and style from an experienced carpenter/joiner.
Step 1:
To begin, though it may seem obvious, check that you have the door the right way round. At the top of a new door the word "lock" will be printed toward one side. This indicates the location of the timber inside the frame that is capable of having a lock or latch fitted to it. Hold the door up to the frame and mark it with a pencil to fit the internal size of the frame. You may wish to refer to your earlier measurements of the door frame also.
Step 2:
Before you saw along your pencil markings, bear in mind that the saw has about a 3mm thickness, so to get an accurate cut a little inside the line that you have drawn.
Step 3:
The standard hinge for doors is the butt hinge at 100mm. Two will be adequate for most doors, but for heavier styles use three. There is no definitive guide as to where hinges should be placed, but it is advisable that the top hinge is fixed 7 inches below the top of the door, and the lower one 7inches from the bottom of the door.
Mark the hinge's position on the door by opening it and laying it on the side of the door to be hung. Use a pencil and scribe with a mortise gauge if required.
Step 4:
Take a chisel and cut ridges into your hinge marking with a mallet, and then chisel out the wood you have loosened. Again, cut slightly inside the line. Ensure that the hinge fits flush into the door and does not protrude or sink.
Step 5:
Drill pilot holes into the door through the centre of the hinge holes. Use your screw hinges and attach the hinge to the door. Repeat this process with the second hinge. Once they are in, stand the door in the frame and ensure that there is a uniform gap around the edges. Leave enough room underneath for any carpet; you can prop the door up with wood or tools to hold its position. Mark with a pencil the place of the hinges on the frame.
Step 6:
Set down the door, and use the set mortise gauge and carpenter's square to mark the hinge positions on the frame. As above, chisel out the wood to the correct size and depth.
Step 7:
Wedge the door in place and then screw the doorframe hinges in. Check that the door moves smoothly; if the hinges feel pulled they may be in too deep. The solution to this is to put a little card behind the hinge. If the hinge is protruding it will be necessary to chisel out a little more wood.
Door repairs
Sticking doors
Doors can stick for numerous reasons. First make sure that it is not atmospheric change that is causing the door to stick. In humid conditions, wood can absorb excess moisture from the air which causes it to swell and thus to hold more firmly in the frame. Alternatively, it may be caused by paint build up on the door. Each time the door is painted, the narrow gap that allows for the door's movement is reduced. To remove the paint, you can either use a paint scraper or chemicals.
Loose screws in the hinge will also cause problems in the door's movement. You should be able to tell if the screws are loose by shaking the door back and forth a little to hear the sound. It may be the case that they only require tightening, or it could be that the actual screw holes are worn. In the case of the latter, first try using longer screws to embed them more deeply into the wood. Ensure that the new screws have a head flush to the frame so they don't impede the door's movement any further. If the screw holes are too worn for long screws to grip properly, remove the screws and cover some dowel joints in glue to plug the holes. Again ensure that they are flush by sanding if necessary, and then drill some new holes for your hinge.
Tightening loose joints
Door joints can become weak and worn from use, age, and exposure to humidity. To amend this, first scrape out old glue from the gaps and squeeze some glue into them. Tighten a clamp on the joint until it is firmly pressed together. Now, drill two holes that are dowel-sized into the join and glue in the dowels, hammering for a secure fit.
After they have been left to dry overnight, make the tops flush to the door and paint it if necessary.