Circular saws, jigsaws, and various other power tools have increased the speed and ease with which many carpentry tasks are now carried out. However, the skill of using a handsaw is still useful and can be quick itself, saving you time of plugging in and setting up a power saw. Hand-sawing is a careful craft that is still extremely valuable to the carpenter, managing anything from large pieces of timber to intricate wood shaping. The task requires a keen eye and a steady hand, and usually plenty of practice until you feel confident enough to handsaw any job necessary.
The term "handsaw" is the collective name for several types of saw that are all hand operated. They are made either straight backed or skewback, the only difference being that straight backs have stiffer blades.
The handle is an important consideration in choosing a saw to work with. It provides strength in the action and comfort for your hand. Wood handles are particularly useful as the wood absorbs perspiration and provides a comfortable grip. Plastic handles can be harsher on the hand but can also be stronger.
The teeth are a continual chain of sharp, cutting edges. The exact size, angle, and shape of the teeth vary between saws, as different saws are designed for different purposes that require various cutting abilities. The traditional main difference in saw teeth was that they were either designed to cut with the grain (ripping) or through it (crosscutting). Saws are partly classified by their teeth, represented as a number which denotes the amount of teeth points occurring along 25.4mm/1inch of the blade.
Saws
Below are the main kinds of handsaw used in domestic carpentry.
Ripsaw - The name of the ripsaw is inspired by its function: "ripping" is to cut with the grain. The front of the teeth are pitched around 90 degrees to the blade. Some styles of ripsaw have the teeth increasing in size as they get closer to the handle so that they can assist the carpenter at the strongest part of the saw stroke.
Crosscut saw - Crosscuts differ to ripsaws in that the teeth are bevelled as opposed to pitched at a 90 degree angle. The angle for crosscut teeth points at 60 degrees.
Tenon saw - These have a stiff-backed blade that has standard measurements ranging from 20cm/8in to 40cm/16in. The teeth are set at 75 degrees, or 60 degrees on smaller tenon saws which are also known as dovetail saws. When used purely for cutting tenon joints, the tenon saw is used to cut along the wood grain and not against.
Coping saw - Designed for neat and fairly narrow shapes, the tension in a coping saw can be adjusted by altering the saw's handle. The blade can also be altered to change direction according to the angles of the wood. Coping saws cut on the pull stroke.
Bow saw - This is usually held to be the best choice for cutting shapes and some detail as it has a narrow blade that holds its tension. The handle can adjusted to allow for parallel cutting. It is operated by using two hands to grip one handle, although for larger timbers it can be a two-man job. The blade lengths range from 25cm/10in to 40cm/16in.
If you are still unsure as to what kind of saw you will require for the job in hand, here is a quick rough guide.
ong pieces of wood or timber sheets:
Ripsaw, crosscut, or panel saw Joints and more precise pieces:
Tenon, dovetail Detailed curves and shapes:
Bow saw, fretsaw, padsaw
To prevent your saw from premature rust and blunting it must be stored correctly. It is best to hang it on the wall of your shed, workshop or garage, keeping it separate to other tools which could knock the set of the teeth and damage the sharpness. Hardpoint saws which have more rigid teeth and blades are designed for the purpose of cutting wood, manmade boards, insulation, plastic and some building blocks. Hardpoint saws cannot be sharpened once they have worn to particular precaution should be taken with these.
Using a Handsaw
To cut a large piece of timber, you will require the support of a workbench or table. It will also be necessary to use a hand or knee to help hold it steady. Start by positioning the saw vertically to make the initial cut and pull the saw up toward you, then lift and repeat a second time. Once you have a decent ridge, level the saw and cut back and forth.
To cut exact joints, apply the saw pressure in the forward motion only, taking care to use the whole blade. Correct any erring from the line in next stroke. Guide the blade by pointing your thumb along the line.
To cut shapes and curves, begin by drilling a hole on the spare side to start you off, making it large enough the saw's blade. Start the cutting with a padsaw, perhaps changing to a panel saw once the space is wide enough to allow it.
To reduce splintering underneath a board or plank, lower the angle that the saw is held to 25-35 degrees. If splintering still occurs, use a saw with smaller sized teeth. As you reach the end of the wood put less pressure on the saw as this will also avoid splintering.
Whilst some aching after a long sawing job is inevitable, don't forget to let the saw do the work and don't overdo the force. Use as much length of the saw as possible and apply more pressure when you reach the end near the handle to help you.
When cutting wet or resin woods, rub wax along the sides of the saw blade to prevent corrosion
Cut slightly outside than the line you have drawn on the wood that will be discarded. This will compensate for the saw width and the thickness of the pencil and measuring apparatus.
Keep your head positioned the saw looking straight down onto the line. If your head is at an angle, you will cut at angle
Avoid cutting through knots
Be careful on dropping the saw through onto your leg once the timber has been cut